From the silty waters of Marsh Harbor to the cleanest, bluest, pristine seas, Madame Geneva took a leisurely, sun-filled tour of the lower stretches of the Abacos. Our time traveling was simple. Pull up anchor, cast off mooring (sometimes single-handed-did I mention the captain moves at a tempo of his own?), and motor along through shallow waters so many shades of blue they deny art through innate beauty. Spotted with shifting sands and low depths, the chart became part of the strategy and less of the angst of traversing.
The entrance to Hope Town on Elbow Cay showed 1.6 meters at the average low. Sha. No problem. We slowed the motor and made our approach…at high tide. We took a mooring in the harbor. Our query for ownership was vaguely met but we figured it would resolve itself in time (and it did, after we called again in the morning). We went ashore for lunch and a tour about. It was super, super hot. Our tour (post lunch) was short-lived in favor of the beach access. Justin went back to MG for snorkeling gear. The gnarled rocks met with pink and white sands. I stood with the kids on these rocks and watched and felt as the waves splashed and sprayed.A lone man under the shade of a couple trees warned of a bull shark that feeds in the area (but ‘don’t worry, you can see him coming’). A couple strolling along the beach provided a bit more helpful info: our friends swim there and have never been bitten by a bull shark, and there are people swimming down a quarter mile in front of the inn (read safety in numbers). We took the walk with Justin on his return. Lots of snorkeling was enjoyed by the reef; although this again emphasized the necessity for flotation with the kids. We chose to check out the inn’s bar and pool after a bit and were not disappointed.Hope Town is truly a beauty. The harbor was complete with multiple dinghy docks (come on, Charleston…). The restaurant where we had lunch had a great open dining area (and no air conditioning) and wonderful deck seating. The buildings and gardens were lovely. So much in the architecture in the houses and their lands that were it not for our short term in staying and our perhaps even shorter term in patience of the little ones, we would have enjoyed a walking study.
A proper sailing club- sailing camp lessons on the porch prior to sunfish in the harbor!
A late departure to match the rising tide brought us en route to Lynyard Cay. We skinnied our way through the shallow waters outside Lubbers Quarters, past Joe’s Cay (of course it was to the nines!). The land, marked in rocky shores and spiny greens, made such contrast with the turquoise and navy sea. Off our port, a bypassed (by us) channel to the ocean was highlighted with the white water crashing against the last bits of Abacos. We settled onto a sandy anchorage, tucked into Lynyard’s Cay.As the sun sets, and the kids have retired to reading after kayaking, swimming, snorkeling, and dancing to a local radio station, we breathe in the beauty. The water is flat,and the breeze is just enough. We have seen turtles, mantra rays, and numerous reef fish here. And just now an oriole landed on the starboard lifelines and sang a song. I believe they call this a bit of ‘alright’.
Tomorrow we set off for Spanish Wells, the top of the Exumas. The forecast is benign for an at sea sail (or likely motor!). I managed to fix the spotwalla issue so take a peek at the “where we are” link on this page…and you can see, well, where we are…and where we are going.
Much love and stay tuned.