Years ago, after college, it occurred to me that my idea of normal and another’s idea of normal vary, and sometimes greatly. At the time, it was an “Ahhh” moment where I thought this person (my sister…but I am not telling which one) thinks I am not normal. Maybe I was late in the realization that what I perceive is just one form of the world, and how I live it is indeed just one way to live it, but that moment held fast and I found myself enjoying over the years the great and many differences we take and make. It is not often that I find others who make similar decisions and find themselves in similar places.
Yet, Admiralty Bay provided just that. We had briefly met two families in Canouan, who were also traveling north. One family, with three kids (one 11 year-old girl, and twin 10 year-old boys), from Massachusetts and one family, with an 11 year-old-girl, from Idaho of all places (there is a Seattle/racing sailboats connection). The days in Bequai were spent exploring the water, building castles and tunnels of sand, “strolling” (we don’t say “hiking” anymore) over the “hillside” (we don’t say “steep incline” anymore) to the whale museum, and watching suns setting in the protection of a great natural harbor, as the choppy sea pushed its large waves to the south.
All needed to get to Martinique (parents flying out, parents flying in). All wanted to wait out the worst of the waves and make for an easier voyage. The captains were all long-time sailors, of various pedigree and design; the wives, all adventurous of mind and spirit and well trained for the roles this sea life demands; and the kids, just thrilled to have someone in the same boat, though not literally, as them. Quite simply, we were simpatico.
Bequai is lovely. The history of the island is filled with story. Admiralty Bay is a true protected harbor in the long set of Grenadines without one. As such, it is extremely welcoming. After the terrorizing time of pirates, and the high era of the sugar plantations, and the hard working and harrowing era of whale hunting, Bequia fell short of any sustaining industry. But it had its harbor. And therefore, what have we sir if not our hospitality?
One of my favorite establishments rested right along the quay. A French doctor, who was also a fine artist, set up a gallery displaying vivid paintings of sea life. One room was dedicated to receiving patients; the remaining rooms, his art. He also had a nice sized freezer where he sold frozen French meals. Service in Bequia, like in much of the Caribbean, is decidedly lax. At one restaurant, we placed our order with what was assumed the server but in fact, turned out to be the cook and the procurer of goods. Each menu item requested was diligently written out in long hand. Initially we were curious on why she insisted on taking the food orders first (no drinks), but that mystery resolved itself when we saw her return with bags of fresh groceries containing the ingredients for our meals.
moonset at sunrise in Admiralty Bay at departure time
A sunset decision to leave at dawn on Wednesday had Justin and I ready at five in the morning. The moon was so bright, I believed it day. Our Massachusetts friends set off alongside, and we raised our sails before heading north into what was still a largely unsettled sea. The plan was to get to Rodney Bay in St. Lucia, therefore giving ourselves leeway to make the ultimate passage to Martinique by Friday. We watched as other sailboats dropped their moorings and raised their anchors, and we were delighted when they too turned north.
We tied in our first reef and proceeded to sail close hauled out of Bequia in 20-25 knots, and seas building to 8-10 feet. All hand steering, Justin managed Madame Geneva quite well. The passage between Bequia and St Vincent was short (6 nm). Once in the lee of the land, we met with flater water, still with good breeze on and off. We motor sailed up the coast, with large green mountains of St Vincent, a land unexplored by us. We saw the dark line of wind moving quickly toward us as we approached the northern side of the island and put back in our reef. We radioed Caradow, our sister boat, to get ready. The passage from St. Vincent to St. Lucia was the much greater distance of 25 nm, and quite an exciting ride.
Upon exiting the lee, we were met with 30 knots and an extremely confused sea state. We reefed in half of the genoa. We got the boat into an upwind groove, sailed north as the breeze settled into the 20s and the sea got into a more regular rhythm. Waves were on the beam, breeze was forward of the beam. Some of the waves in 8-10 feet. Though never on her ear, Madame Geneva was pressing hard on her elbow. We were 6nm off of the Pitons when the washing machine seemed to shutter and stop.
a cooling off foot dragging during the hottest part of the day offshore
We motorsailed toward land, to leave the white chop behind and find the comfort of a blue sea. Excitedly we looked at the boat ahead of us and watched as they abruptly heeled over. Game on, we prepared the sails and turned off the motor again. A lovely close haul, 15-20 of breeze with flat water, set our course back off the land about 4nm. Boat speed saw 10 knots, averaging in the 8s. I took a turn at the helm and while I may have slowed us down, I managed to give Che a proper dousing as he rode the bow and demanded to be splashed. Only his right armpit remained dry.
Gregory- our Rodney Bay fruit and veggie monger. Great stuff!
We arrived in the late afternoon, well past any useful sunlight to set the anchor. A couple of tries and a proper intended drag got us well dug in though. We tidied the boat and watched as our friends arrived. An evening of Indian and pizza ensued to the delight of all. The kids were at one restaurant and the adults at another. We opted to stay on the next day and take another non-hike up to the fort at Pigeon Island.
six boat turkeys at the peak of pigeon island!
The late afternoon found us on the beach, with a dinghy propelled knee-boarding session for all. And then, wait, what lies on the horizon?! Merlin, our other sister boat! We quickly agreed to host a bit of a pot luck dinner and movie night on Madame Geneva. Seven kids, six adults…no problem.
And now, we are off to Martinique. Stay tuned and much love.
1 Comment
I loved reading your take on the last few days!