With our sights on Bequia (Literally. It was right there.), we pulled up anchor and set off in the early morning. We were barely offshore before we tucked into Admiralty Bay. The approach to Bequia left us with the notion of a rather deserted island but just around the bend including Devil’s Table, we found Port Elizabeth. The bay was filled with many sailboats, some rather rusty commercial vessels (no longer in use), and a couple of very large, shiny, red ferries. We read up on the disadvantages of mooring (unsanctioned, not necessarily attached and prone to breaking) and the advantages of anchoring. We chose what appeared to be a nice sandy patch decidedly off of two wrecks, based on coordinates, not sight. The first go, we watched as the anchor chain bumped along (clearly not latched). We pulled up, circled a minute and then went back near the same spot. Anchor secured, Justin dove to check it out. He reported, “Bombs away!” The ‘sandy’ patch was in fact a massive white rock bed with six inches of sand covering. We managed to drop the anchor in the only 3 foot square section of true sand. We were off to a good start!The people of Bequia were friendly. They presented their wares and services without being pushy. The town was tidy and active. We walked along the concrete path at the water’s edge. The fishing boats were moored in the shallow turquoise water. Dinghy docks were abundant for such a small stretch. Shops, restaurants and some old dive bars lined the inland pass as the walk continued southerly to Princess Margaret Beach. Estates followed, with a Sotheby’s in line for anyone with a whim and several million dollars handy. The path continued up a rickety pass, around some rock heads and back down to the beach.
We dined ashore at Whaleboner, caught a show with a solo guitar player and singer, and dinghied back to Madame Geneva. The next day, Saturday, was the day of cruise ships. Lots of hustle was ashore, as the ships only come once a week. Water taxis thrive on Saturday, as the yachts with their own dinghies are not in need. We choose to take some time at Princess Margaret Beach, and the kids jumped the waves and generally got pummeled by the surf. We delighted in this, as sometimes, after months on a boat together, it is just nice to see your kids get a beating. The following day, we took a very mellow approach. We dinghied out to Devil’s Table for some snorkeling and found triggerfish and trumpet fish, and then settled into Lower Bay for some late lunch and more wave jumping.
Bequia has a lore to it that we both rather enjoyed. Madame Geneva was well settled at anchor. The breeze was lovely. And so we stayed another day. This time we found ourselves by Industry Bay, after a short safari/taxi ride. Our driver, Kevin, was quite nice and dropped us at Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. About ninety sea turtles of various age swam about in the tanks, either healing or simply kept because they were no longer able to adapt to the outside environment. They have released over 1150 turtles, rescued, treated and returned.
We walked down the road a bit (yes, another stroll, really!) and found Sugar Reef (hotel and restaurant). Lunch was simply divine. The space was lovely with great architecture of stone and wood. The cocktails were perfect; the food was simple and excellent. We chatted with the owner and hope to meet him again on our return trip back north.
Gherty kayak surfing
Tandem kayak surfing
Our last night in Bequia found us on Madame Geneva anticipating Justin’s lasagna. It is important to note that sometimes you don’t get what you want when provisioning. Improvisation is key. It is also important to note that when you can’t identify a cheese, you shouldn’t put it on lasagna. And lastly, it is equally important to note, that sausage often means hotdog down here. We dubbed it “Opossum Cheese and Italian Hotdog lasagna”. Ahhh, yachting.
Justin did save the day prior to our departure. I was hanging towels along the lifelines the previous day and managed to drop my Maui Jim’s in the water. We were only 13’ so I initially searched, located, dove and banged my head on the hull after failing to get deep enough. Justin returned from shore to find me searching again for what I already found. Neither of us were successful then; although that may be because Justin did find a six foot long sea snake in the general location! He surprised me by diving the next morning and came up with my glasses. Now that is a good man!
Children swimming home from the bar
Truly an awesome sail down to Clifton, Union Island on Tuesday. We were simply flying. Sailed the whole way and only brought down the main and turned on the engine when we were just inside the reef. We received a little assistance (a bit pushy but in the end he was helpful) from a mooring assistant and settled nicely, tucked in behind the reef. The reef is host to the world’s smallest island. Manmade from conch shells, tossed aside and piling up like garbage in the town, the island was slowly pieced together. Once the sand gathered around the conchs, a bar was built. Happy Island is open anytime. Just come and get happy…so we did.
Much love and stay tuned.