Mr Robinson, a day late and then several hours late, then a day late, said “uncle”, wouldn’t accept any money and dropped the dead puppy off on our dock.
Red Hook was fun. Lots to eat and provisions bountiful. We were “those people” and took a cab to Sugar Bay Resort, had a few drinks at the bar acting as if we belonged there and let the kids go crazy in their 3 pools, caves, waterfalls and games. Lucky it’s the offseason and the resort was a ghost town. No stress, no orange wristbands, no dinner at the overpriced restaurant. Great fun.
We decided since it’s the weekend and nothing will get done until Monday we’d head to our original destination, Coral Harbor, on the other side of St John. Sailed and motored the length of the Windward Passage past Jost Van Dyke (UK), St John (US), Frenchmans Cay and Sopers Hole (UK), Tortola (UK) then south round east end of St John, past Flanagan Island (US) and both Norman and Peter Islands (UK) to port. Coral Harbor is nice, fairly well protected and full. Many boats look like they’re in no hurry to leave. More still have no mast or signs of life. Some transients here and there but clearly this is the spot in St. John to anchor and wait or anchor and split…hmmm. Beautiful place. Rolly anchorage since all of the good spots were taken up by vacated boats but lovely none the less.
I rowed (yep!) us into the quay where we tied up to a fish cleaning table and dragged the motorless RIB onto the concrete steps. We found a great BBQ bar with feral chickens, iguana, goats and locals. The brisket was excellent as were our first homemade deviled eggs in ages. The “pour your own cocktail bar” was hilarious. A longer row upwind to a well set anchor had us rolling to sleep full and happy to be back at it.
Kelly and I both woke up today (Sunday) to church bells with a plan. Turned out be be nearly the same one. We’re getting used to this groove and occasionally sharing a brain when it comes to sailing issues. Since clearing in to customs in the BVI is a formal affair and Sundays are not part of anyone’s schedules we’d sail back to the north side of St John and spend the day frolicking at Watermelon Bay just across the passage from West End, BVI so we can clear in 1st thing Monday AM.
We enjoyed a great sail! Finally a downwind bit!!! A short one, but literally our first downwind in months! We hoisted the spinnaker and flew it wing on wing down the middle of the windward passage. Just exactly what the doctor ordered. Another fun afternoon of swimming, snorkeling and exploring the Cay on foot followed by a sunset kayak (x5) around the bay.
We’re the lone residents of Watermelon Bay tonight. Some lights of Tortola and Sopers Hole across the passage otherwise stars, trees and water.
We’ll clean ourselves up and try to charm the English into letting us soil their sovereign soil with our raggedy cool aid stained Americaness tomorrow morning. Got a plan to find a 2 stroke Yamaha for the dinghy and probably succomb to the magnetic pull all sailors suffer in the proximity of a Pussers Rum bar.
All is well. Some rowing does a body good- occasionally.
Stay tuned. Much love.